Article Sidebar

Submitted
October 23, 2025
Accepted
February 27, 2026
Published
May 31, 2026
Download
Statistic
Read Counter : 3

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Main Article Content

Abstract

Background: Our previous research successfully extracted astaxanthin from fermented Acetes shrimp (cincalok) using virgin coconut oil (VCO), resulting in astaxanthin-enriched VCO (VCOA). This innovative approach demonstrates the feasibility of incorporating VCOA into cosmetic preparations. In particular, its application in lip balm formulations
Objective: This study aimed to formulate a lip balm incorporating VCOA in combination with tengkawang butter.
Method: The physical properties and sunscreen activity of the lip balm were evaluated as a function of storage duration at room temperature. The study examined the influence of varying concentrations and compositions of astaxanthin-enriched virgin coconut oil (VCOA) and illipe fat on the formulation. Key parameters assessed included homogeneity, pH stability, color stability, and melting point.
Results: The test results indicated that a homogeneous lip balm was obtained when a high concentration of VCOA (15-30% w/w) was used and was stable for 28 days of storage. The acidity level (pH: 4.56-6.69) and melting point of the lip balm (50–67°C) have met the Indonesian National Standard. The presence of VCOA causes the lip balm to be yellow to orange. The resulting lip balm shows a sun protection factor (SPF: 51.1674 ± 0.0364) value with an ultra-protection category.
Conclusion: In this study, astaxanthin was extracted from cincalok using VCO to produce VCOA, which was directly applied as a lip balm ingredient. The application of VCOA at the highest concentration (30%) yielded lip balm with excellent homogeneity, stable pH and melting point in accordance with SNI standards, the most pronounced color, and the highest SPF value.

Keywords

astaxanthin cincalok cosmetic lip balm

Article Details

License

Copyright (c) 2026 Dwi Imam Prayitno, Winda Rahmalia, Elisabet Herlina

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Authors who publish in the Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi agree to the following terms:

  1. Authors retain copyright and grant Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution Licence that allows others to adapt (remix, transform, and build) upon the work non-commercially with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi.
  2. Authors are permitted to share (copy and redistribute) the journal's published version of the work non-commercially (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi.
Crossref
Scopus
Google Scholar
Europe PMC

References

  1. Al Mamun, M., Sato, S., Naru, E., Sakata, O., Hoshikawa, E., Suzuki, A., Islam, A., Kahyo, T., Sato, T., Ito, T. K., Horikawa, M., Fukui, R., Izumi, K., & Setou, M. 2020. Higher accumulation of docosahexaenoic acid in the vermilion of the human lip than in the skin. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 21(8), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms21082807
  2. Azmin, S. N. H. M., Jaine, N. I. M., & Nor, M. S. M. 2020. Physicochemical and sensory evaluations of moisturising lip balm using natural pigment from Beta vulgaris. Cogent Engineering, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1080/23311916.2020.1788297
  3. Cholis Endriyatno, N., Walid, M., Nurani, K., & Aifa, A. L. 2024. Formulation and Determination of SPF Value of Black Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) Peel Extract Lip Balm with Variations in Beeswax and Carnauba Wax Base Concentrations. Jurnal Mandala Pharmacon Indonesia (JMPI), 10(1), 290–301. https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi
  4. Desnita, R., Anastasia, D. S., & Putri, M. D. 2022. Formulations and Physical Stability Test of Olive Oil (Olea europaea L.) Lip Balm with Illepe Butter. Jurnal Farmasi Sains Dan Praktis, 8(1), 134–141. https://doi.org/10.31603/pharmacy.v8i1.4977
  5. Di Pietro, M. E., Mannu, A., & Mele, A. 2020. NMR determination of free fatty acids in vegetable oils. Processes, 8(4). https://doi.org/10.3390/PR8040410
  6. Fitriani, D., Rahmalia, W., Ardiningsih, P., Usman, T., Nurbaeti, S. N., & Prayitno, D. I. 2023. Extraction of astaxanthin from fermented Acetes using virgin coconut oil with the glass beads vortex method. OCL - Oilseeds and Fats, Crops and Lipids, 30(1).
  7. Gunt, H. B., & Ertel, K. 2023. The pH of the lip surface. Skin Research and Technology, 29(8), 26–28. https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.13438
  8. Gusti, E. R., & Waluyo, T. K. 2011. Tengkawang Fat as a Basic Ingredient For Lipstick. Jurnal Penelitian Hasil Hutan, 34(4), 297–307.
  9. Kusrini, E., Mawarni, D. P., Wulandari, D. A., Ayuningtyas, K., & Usman, A. 2020. Formulation and characterization of lip balm made from beeswax, almond oil, virgin coconut oil and honey. AIP Conference Proceedings, 2255(September). https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0014367
  10. Limanda, D., Siska Anastasia, D., & Desnita, R. 2019. Formulation and Evaluation of Physical Stability of Almond Oil Lip Balm Preparations (Prunus amygdalus dulcis). Jurnal Mahasiswa Framasi Fakultas Kedokteran UNTAN, 4(1), 1–9.
  11. Mauludia, M., Usman, T., Rahmalia, W., Imam Prayitno, D., & Nani Nurbaeti, S. 2021. Extraction, Characterization and Antioxidant Activity Test of Astaxanthin from Fermented Shrimp Product (Cincalok). Jurnal Kelautan Tropis, 24(3), 311–322.
  12. Mbanga, L., Mulenga, M., Mpiana, P. T., Bokolo, K., Mumbwa, M., & Mvingu, K. 2014. Determination of Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of Some Body Creams and Lotions Marketed in Kinshasa by Ultraviolet Spectrophotometry. International Journal of Advanced Research in Chemical Science (IJARCS), 1(8), 7–13. www.arcjournals.org
  13. Nareswari, T. L., Syafitri, E., & Nurjannah, O. 2022. Sunscreen lip balm stick formulation containing a combination of virgin coconut oil and crude palm oil. Pharmacy Reports, 2(2), 48. https://doi.org/10.51511/pr.48
  14. Nurbaeti, S. N., Fajriaty, I., Nugraha, F., Kurniawan, H., Rahmalia, W., Usman, T., & Prayitno, D. I. 2021. Acute Oral Toxicity of Cincalok Oil in Wistar Rats. Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, 8(2), 51. https://doi.org/10.24198/ijpst.v8i2.26343
  15. Prayitno, D. I., Dewi, E. N., Pringgenies, D., & Brotosudarmo, T. H. P. 2022. Green ultrasound-assisted extraction of astaxanthin from fermented rebon shrimp (cincalok) using vegetable oils as solvents. OCL - Oilseeds and Fats, Crops and Lipids, 29. https://doi.org/10.1051/ocl/2022008
  16. Prayitno, D. I., Dewi, E. N., Pringgenies, D., & Brotosudarmo, T. H. P. 2024. Advantages of virgin coconut oil enriched with astaxanthin (VCOA) in protection against light-and heat-induced oxidation. AACL Bioflux, 17(6), 2753–2764.
  17. Puspita, S., Nurlaeli, L., Taufiqurrahman, M., & Majid, N. C. 2023. Effectiveness Test of Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa L.) Concentration on the Physical Quality of Lip Balm Preparations. Jurnal Integrasi Kesehatan & Sains, 5(2), 104–110. https://doi.org/10.29313/jiks.v5i2.11486
  18. Rahmalia, W., Dasilia, C., Usman, T., Prayitno, D. I., & Nurbaeti, S. N. 2022. Astaxanthin and omega-3-rich oil from fermented Acetes (Cincalok) and its application as bioactive additive and sunscreen in lotion. OCL - Oilseeds and Fats, Crops and Lipids, 29, 1–8.
  19. Sabzevari, N., Qiblawi, S., Norton, S. A., & Fivenson, D. 2021. Sunscreens: UV filters to protect us: Part 1: Changing regulations and choices for optimal sun protection. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, 7(1), 28–44. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.05.017
  20. Siahaan, H., Ruswanto, A., Oktavianty, H., Ngatirah, Widyasaputra, R., Adisetya, E., & Bimantio, M. P. 2022. Making Lip Balm from PKO and VCO with the Addition of Red Betel leaf Extraxt (Piper ornatum) as an Antioxidant. Prosiding Seminar Nasional Instiper, 1(1), 252–259. https://doi.org/10.55180/pro.v1i1.261
  21. Supartiningsih, S., Maimunah, S., Sitorus, E., & Lestari, S. 2021. Lip Balm Formulation Usig Papaya Juice (Carica papaya L.). Jurnal Farmanesia, 8(2), 107–112.
  22. Susilo, J., & Febriana, A. 2022. The Effect of Olive Oil Concentration in Lip Balm on The Physical Properties and The Product Acceptance Rate. Indonesian Journal of Pharmacy and Natural Product, 5(1), 28–34. https://doi.org/10.35473/ijpnp.v5i1.1556
  23. Ulfindrayani Ika Fitri, & Qurrota A’yuni. 2018. Determination of Free Fatty Acid and Water Content in Cooking Oil Used by Fried Food Vendors on Jalan Manyar Sabrangan, Mulyorejo, Surabaya. Journal of Pharmacy and Science, 3(2), 17–22.
  24. Wunderling, K., Zurkovic, J., Zink, F., Kuerschner, L., & Thiele, C. 2023. Triglyceride cycling enables modification of stored fatty acids. Nature Metabolism, 5(4), 699–709.